Part 1: The Hague: Amsterdam’s Chill Cousin
Doesn’t it kinda remind you of Amsterdam?
Dreaming of Amsterdam but dreading the crowds? The Hague (that town you hear about in European based action movies) might be what you’re looking for. World renowned art museums? Check. Proximity to tulip fields and windmills? Check. A mix of gorgeous historical architecture? Check. Drunken stag parties stumbling from one alley to another? Not one. This overlooked gem is full of hidden spots, history, and adventures, so here’s a quick rundown of what a day trip to the Hague might contain:
The Highlights
The Mauritshuis Originally built as a home for the Prince of Nassau in the 1640’s, this art museum houses the works of Dutch Masters like Rubens, Vermeer and Rembrandt. The undisputed prize of the collection however, is Girl With the Pearl Earring. Make sure to keep an eye on ticket availability especially during holidays or tulip season. Old Prince Maurits was more of a Harry than a William so his small(er) house fills up quick.
Binnenhof Dutch for “inner court” this walled complex is the heart of the Dutch Government almost a millenia in the making. Its centerpiece is the 750 year old Hall of Knights. Built as a banquet hall by Count Floris V, it's now used as an official hall for events like the King’s annual speech at the opening of Parliament. Speaking of, the Dutch Parliament is also in this complex, as is the Prime Minister’s office, which sits in the little tower. The Binnenhof reminds us that Amsterdam’s whole “capital city” thing is really just a clerical error.
Hofvijver The hands down, best view of the Hague. A seashelled path leads you along the Hofvijver or ‘court pond’. Here you can see a beautiful lake surrounded by all the eras of Dutch History: the Medieval banquet hall, the Dutch Golden Age Art Museum, the 19th century row of houses, and the modern day skyscrapers, all without so much as a turn of the head. But if you do happen to turn around, you might catch a glimpse of a world leader or two heading into a stately row of embassies.
Plaats Just off the court pond is a charming little square (well really more of a triangle) to grab lunch in. You’ll be dining in the footsteps of the Hague’s most famous resident, Vincent Van Gogh. His family’s art dealership which he worked in for several years, was located at Plaats 16, now the upscale Steltman Watch store.
Rijksmuseum de Gevangenpoort If you’re reading all this and thinking “This all sounds nice, but I like my cities with a little spooky on the side” I see you. Your port of call should be the medieval prison/traitor’s gate/criminology museum. It was the execution place for the De Witt Brothers, two powerful Republicans whose opposition to the monarchy got them horrifically murdered by an angry mob. Their former portrait painter, Jan De Baen, happened to be in the neighborhood to paint what was left of them, for what has to be the world’s most brutal before and after shots.
The Passage Jumping forward a few hundred years or so and the Hague is finally recovering from the century long recession following the collapse of the Dutch East India Company. This spawned a flurry of building projects, chief among them being the Passage, a glass covered upscale shopping street. This is a lovely place to walk through no matter the weather, and many stores display the King’s seal of approval. It's especially beautiful around the holidays, when they roll out the red carpet and put a stunning Christmas tree beneath the central glass dome.
Noordeinde Palace Although not particularly flashy, the working palace of Noordeinde lies at the end of the Royal Shopping District, a lovely little walk and a chance to see more of the Hague’s flavor of Dutch architecture.
The Peace Palace Heading out of the city a little brings us to the Peace Palace, the home of the International Court of Justice. It's known locally as that thing that makes everyone believe the Hague is just one really big court/prison/center of international intrigue. Not content with just building libraries on his home turf, Andrew Carnegie financed this 1907 Palace to house both the court and the International Law Library. It is a spectacular building as are the grounds around it. A little note for the geology nerds out there: The Peace Flame is surrounded by a monument embedded with a stone/gem donated by every country, just beside the main gate.
Scheveningen Beach Did I mention the Hague is also a beach town? Just a 15 minute tram ride away from the city center and you’ll think you must have accidentally ended up on a slightly colder California pier. If you love a bit of adrenaline chasing on your vacation, the pier has a zip line, a ferris wheel, and bungee jumping. Along the beach you’ll also find seafood restaurants, arcades, toy stores, an aquarium, and a skate park. Towering over it all is the Kurhaus, a slightly palatial looking hotel brought to you by the same folks as the Passage.
Madurodam Do you like your tourist dollars to go to a well deserved cause? The Madurodam might be for you. Named for Dutch Resistance fighter George Maduro (who managed to escape the Nazis not once, not twice, but four times, among a whole other list of truly heroic actions) this tourist attraction is like stepping into Gulliver’s travels. Famous Dutch sights as well as internationally known landmarks are reproduced in 1:25 miniatures, and 100% of the proceeds go to various charities.
Grote Markt Well gee if you’ve done any/all of that you’re probably hungry again! A great place to grab dinner and drinks is Grote Markt, which also doubles as a music venue. This little square is particularly beautiful at night, as many of the pubs and restaurants string up lights all throughout the awnings and trees.
